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Glacier National Park in the northwest corner of Montana and nestled against the Canadian border has it all. It’s one of the few remaining places in the lower 48 with an intact ecosystem. Bear, cougar, wolf, moose, and elk can still be found in an environment relatively similar to when Lewis and Clark passed nearby. The Park offers soaring mountain peaks, alpine meadows and of course glaciers, as well as 700 miles of trails with which to explore it all. But it’s what the park doesn’t have that gets us exited – there’s relatively few people. Sure there are crowds, nearly 2 million people visit each year. Fortunately for us the vast majority never leave their car! Get out of your car and make the most of your visit with the Top Ten Must See: Glacier National Park.
“My hypocrisy knows no bounds”. This one you can enjoy in your vehicle.
With so much natural beauty it is hard to imagine an asphalt ribbon breaking the Top Ten Must See list in Glacier National Park.
The Going to the Sun Highway bisects Glacier National Park. Joining the village of St. Mary in the east to West Glacier it is considered one the most scenic drives in America. This 50 mile stretch of paradise crosses the continental divide at Logan Pass and offers motorists panoramic mountain vistas around nearly every corner. Shuttle and bus service is available for those that do not meet the Park’s vehicle length (<21′) and height (<10′) restrictions.
Gruff or not, Billy will mesmerize you with his ability to defy gravity while navigating sheer rock faces. The best place to get up close (but not too close) is the Logan Pass Hidden Lake Nature trail. Mountain Goats can also be found on the Grinnell Glacier trail. Spring is the season for great pictures of goats with full coats and early summer is the best for images of the young kids.
(8) Kintla LakeAccessible by the Inner North Fork Road (the road is generous in some sections), Kintla Lake is nestled against the Boundary Mountains in the northwest section of the park bordering Canada. If solitude, jagged peaks, and a pristine mountain lake are ‘your thing’ then this is the place for you. Primitive camping (i.e. no showers, no hookups, and pit toilets) is available. If you go, take the time and visit the unique village of Polebridge.
Ninety percent of Glacier’s 1.9 million visitors per year never venture more than 300 yards from a road. A shame for sure but great for you if you are willing to put in a little sweat equity. Sharing the pass with marmots, and if your extremely lucky a wolverine, you have a commanding view of two magnificent valleys below you. If you are adventurous, continue your trek into Many Glacier and catch the Park shuttle back to your car.
There are a number of ways to access the pass – we recommend the trailhead at Siyeh Bend. Approximately 4.5 miles (one way) with 1750′ elevation gain. From the pass, the hike to Many Glacier is a further 2640′ and 8.3 miles below.
Like two for one deals? Apparently the Canadian and American governments of the day did. In 1932 they linked Glacier National Park and Waterton Lakes National Park creating the first International Peace Park. Waterton Lakes is a continuation of the Crown of the Continent ecosystem with a unique prairie meets mountain landscape. Well worth at least a day trip.
Waterton is a short drive north of Glacier along Chief Mountain International Highway (hwy 17/6) and requires a border crossing to enter Canada. Ensure you have all pertinent documentation – passport recommended, and soon to be required.
(5) Logan PassSatisfy your inner Lewis and Clark… Just saying you stood at the top of Glacier National Park (well, close enough) and crossed the continental divide sounds cool. At 6646′ it’s probably the highest point you’ll visit during your stay in the Park. The visitor center looks like it is right out of the Sound of Music and offers the typical interpretive displays, but the real gem is the chance to visit an alpine ecosystem. From the Visitor Center, the popular Hidden Lake Nature Trail, actually a boardwalk protecting the fragile alpine environment, leads to an overlook before descending to Hidden Lake. If you can, time your visit for the wildflower display (late June and July). Bring sunscreen and bug repellent.
Iceberg Lake Trail is an excellent choice if you need a warm up hike to get your ‘mountain legs’ back. The trail trail gains 1200 gentle feet over 4.8 miles (one way) making it one of the easier trails in the area. In fact the few stairs at the trailhead present the steepest challenge you will face. As it’s name suggests the trail leads you to a beautiful blue mountain lake containing icebergs that have fallen from the Mordor-like rock wall that surrounds the lake. Great place for a picnic. Park Rangers lead interpretive hikes to the lake. Check the Many Glacier Ranger Station postings for further details and timing.
This area is frequented by grizzlies and it is not uncommon to spot them foraging on the slopes above you (to the north behind the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn/General Store).
For those with steam left in your stride head north at Ptarmigan Falls junction and continue up the trail another 2.6 miles (one way) gaining 1600′ to Ptarmigan Tunnel. The tunnel was created in 1931 to allow horse packers easier access to the Belly River valley. At 7200′ the view of the Belly River valley and Elizabeth Lake are quite spectacular.
Fresh roasted coffee to get the juices flowing in the morning and a thirst quenching Huckleberry Lager after your hike, what could be better? Sure you can purchase both in the Park but why not go to the source. The Great Northern Brewing Company and Montana Coffee Traders reside in the picturesque mountain town of Whitefish approximately 45 minutes northwest of West Glacier.
Remnants of the last ice age seek refuge within a cathedral-like bowl that marks the official terminus of the Grinnell Glacier trail. The glacier, a mere fraction of what it once was, is still something to behold as many waterfalls cascade into the glacial lake at its base. The trail is moderately strenuous gaining 1600′ over 5.5 miles, or 3.8 miles if you opt to take the boat. There is the option of joining a Ranger lead interpretive hike. Check at the Many Glacier Ranger Station for details and timing.
Personally, we think this is the best “bang for your buck” trail in the park as it quickly gets you into the high country providing gorgeous views of cascading waterfalls, wildflowers (in season) and snow capped peaks even during the dog days of August.
Expect to encounter some form of wildlife on the trail. Most common are Big Horn and Mountain Goats. Occasionally the trail is closed due to bear activity. The entire length of the trail is considered prime grizzly habitat. Remember to pack the bear spray and make lots of noise.
(1) Grizzly BearGlacier National Park offers the grizzly a prime montane, sub-alpine, and alpine corridor connecting Yellowstone populations to their Canadian counterparts. While seeing a grizzly in Glacier is not uncommon your odds are greatly increased in the following areas – Many Glacier (watch for the spotting scopes set up at the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn parking lot), Logan Pass (Rangers will most likely close the area while a bear moves through), Apgar Village, and along the Northern Fork Road. Respect the bears and give them their space, it is theirs after all.
Don’t know what to do in bear country? Refer to the Glacier National Park Bear page for the latest information regarding bear management and your safety while in the Park.
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Posted on: Sunday, June 8th, 2008
Posted in: featured articles, guides & images, travel
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Comments: 2 Responses
July 23rd, 2008 at 8:23 pm
[...] month we wrote about Mountain Goats being a must see in Glacier National Park. During a recent trip to the park we stopped at the Goat Lick Overlook along highway 2 south of the [...]
March 22nd, 2009 at 1:10 pm
[...] month we wrote about Mountain Goats being a must see in Glacier National Park. During a recent trip to the park we stopped at the Goat Lick Overlook along highway 2 south of the [...]