During the summer of 2002, along with our friend Steve, we successfully completed the Chilkoot Trail from Dyea AK to the headwaters of the Yukon river at Lake Bennett BC.

July 14-15: Edmonton, AB – Liard Hot Springs, BC

We’ve had two long days in ‘the saddle’ and are now at Liard Hot Springs, British Columbia swatting annoying black gnats and listening to chilly rain showers sprinkle our tent.

Yesterday was pretty uneventful as we drove through the Grande Prairie/Peace farmland regions to Charlie Lake Provincial Park, BC. Eight hours in the confines of a Land Rover with two other people can test the patience of most but so far we’ve managed to get along surprising well.

This morning we were on the road by 9:30 am. So far the scenery on the Alaskan Highway has yet to ignite the imagination (the beginning of which is a very uninspiring milepost ’0′ sign in Dawson Creek), however today the scenery vastly improved as the distant mountain peaks broke the horizon promising the adventures we are seeking. We also started seeing wildlife today. Ken has devised a game to make the drive a bit more interesting which basically comes down to spotting critters and tallying the points. Not sure Mattel will be jumping to purchase the rights but it does help break the monotony of the long drive.

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The weather was spotty and we ended up driving further than expected arriving in Liard Hotsprings well ahead of schedule.

Highlight of the day:

Steve – Seeing the cute construction girl on Hwy 97 and Ken losing at his own animal spotting game (mistaking a horse for a moose);

Ken – Spotting his first cariboo and being in the mountains and;

Cameo – Seeing a black bear, and 3 rainbows in the span of 2 hours.

The hot springs are pretty amazing! We just dipped our feet tonight but will go for the full-out dip tomorrow morning before heading to Watson Lake, YK. I’m hoping to get a small hike in tomorrow as I’m getting worried about the Chilkoot Trail.

July 16: Liard Hot Springs – Watson Lake, YK

It rained throughout the night but the sun was shining when we got up. It was a pretty scummy privately owned campsite (Ken thought he saw a rat) so we were quick to pack up and head to the hot springs. It was awesome despite the sulphur smell. It felt great and had an “Apocolypse Now” feel with the mist rising off the water and the lush vegetation surrounding the springs. We were pretty much alone at 8 a.m. and had a chance to enjoy easing in to the hottest part. We were able to cool off at the other end and by 9 am it was getting crowded with gray haired foxes easing their joints in the therapeutic waters. We were back in the Land Rover by mid-morning and off to Watson Lake.

Ken found a pull out for Smith Falls, BC so we got a tiny hike in to the falls. The falls were pretty big so we got some photos and we also did a toe dip in the river before continuing on to Watson Lake.

At Watson Lake YK, we visited the famous Sign Post Forest and set up camp just outside of town. Of course the rain started again and continued into the night with brief periods of relief. Hopefully tomorrow will bring the sun to dry us out again. It is less mountainous here but tomorrow we will get our fill of white peaks as we are headed to Atlin, BC. Before retiring for the evening we still managed to enjoy a fire and some beer in the rain. No notable wildlife sightings today (except for the crazy assed bugs! — more deet please!!!).

Highlight of the day:

Steve – The hot springs, though I think he secretly enjoyed using the MSR water filter for the first time;

Ken – Enjoying the hot springs and not only finding the name of a restaurant in Whitehorse but a menu as well;

Cameo – The hot springs. I would have tolerated the crappy campsite one more night just to stay and play more (there is a Provincial campsite at the springs but we were unable to get a spot).

July 17: Watson Lake – Whitehorse

The rain stopped long enough for us to pack up camp but the skies opened up shortly after and it rained for the entire drive. Since the weather was so bad we decided to forgo Atlin and head straight to Whitehorse (the only reason to go to Atlin is to actually see it!). We made it to Whitehorse and hit the visitors centre, Coast Mountain Sports, and the Yukon Mining Co. so Ken could get his fish and chips (Alaskan Halibut). After lunch we could not believe our eyes when the sun made an appearance and were even more surprised when it dumped rain on us again. Despite the fickle weather, the sun decided to dry us out while we camped at Wolf Creek Territorial Park for the night. Steve and I did the 3 km loop trail, which turned into anything but a loop and took us about an 1 1/2 – 2 hours to get back to camp.

Highlight of the Day:

Steve – The cute Whitehorse girl and getting lost on a loop trail;

Ken – The the sunshine and the fish and chips (he didn’t need the onion rings);

Cameo – Finding a nice warm sweater at a pretty good price and enjoying the sunshine while drinking a Grizzly beer.

Still light outside at 11:15 pm – Too cool.

July 18: Whitehorse – Atlin, BC – Tagish, YK

We were up and packed by 9 am, did some running around Whitehorse (coffee/gas) and tried to shower at an RV place but were told only ‘guests’ could shower there. So…the stinky threesome headed to Atlin for the day. Most of the drive was uneventful (except for the scenery) and it rained on and off before we got to Atlin. Atlin is a very “Northern Exposure” type of town. One general store; an Inn; a laundrymat; and some tourist businesses. The town is located right on Atlin Lake with a view of a beautiful string of mountains. The sun was out, an added bonus, while we ate our lunch amongst the seagulls.

We decided to start conditioning (it’s never too late!) and went to the Monarch trail (about 3 1/2 hours round trip). Steve made it about a quarter of the way up the trail before discovering that his new boots were giving him a blister so he turned back to save himself for the Chilkoot. Ken and I continued up, and up, and up. It really was a gorgeous afternoon and the view was stunning. No critters except a mouse, a falcon, a few chipmunks and squirrels. The rain came again after finishing the hike so we decided to push on to Tagish YK for the night. We were quick to set up camp and retire for the evening as the mosquitoes are quite brutal.

Highlight of the day:

Steve – The Atlin visit and a shower;

Ken – Getting some miles in;

Cameo – Putting my hiking boots on, making it to the top without feeling like fainting, and a nice hot shower.

Sleep will not be a problem tonight!

July 19: Tagish – Skagway, AK

The morning was just as thick with mosquitoes so we hightailed it out of Tagish, destination – Carcross, and played in the self proclaimed “World’s Smallest Desert” (Ken got to take the Rover for a spin in the dunes). After playing in the sand we headed toward Skagway AK. We hit some low clouds just prior to getting to the US border and nearly missed the Welcome to Alaska sign. Just before Skagway we found some cool rock formations that enticed us to stop and scramble over them. Skagway reminds me of Dawson City YK but larger and more touristy as it caters to the cruise ship crowd with ‘olde fashioned’ store fronts and locals in period dress. We checked in at the Trail Center booked our train tickets (to get us from Bennett back to Skagway), and ferry passage to Haines for after our hike. Camping is free tonight in Dyea. While in Dyea we ‘hiked’ through the ghost town and through the slide cemetery of April 3, 1898.

Tomorrow the real fun begins!

Highlight of the day:

Steve – Enjoyed his musk-ox burger and the Skagway experience;

Ken – The cloud and fog on the White Pass and having an Alaskan Amber Ale in Skagway;

Cameo – Finalizing the hike agenda and enjoying a beer in Alaska.

Read Chilkoot Trail Part 2

Read Chilkoot Trail Part 3

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